![]() 11/23/2018 at 07:47 • Filed to: wrenching, Mopar, fucked | ![]() | ![]() |
Took the kids to a movie last night, which we all enjoyed. Then dropping my daughter’s friend off I thought I smelled gas. Got home ( 1 block away ), grabbed the light, and found my culprit.
Not mine, just showing the issue.
The ends of my fuel rail are leaking. Apparently the repair kit gave up.
Now I’m at a loss for what to do. Clearly the repair kits don’t last as I just fixed this issue this spring, I cannot find a replacement rail anywhere to just put a new one on, and installing another 20yo fuel rail seems like a terrible idea.
Seems like my only options are:
1. Janky fix that involves drilling/tapping the end of the rail and using barbed fittings/high pressure fuel hose.
2. Swap to the newer style top end, which is a project I’m not sure on how it’ll go.
3. Find a different drivetrain and swap something else in.
4. Someone happens to have one of these laying around somewhere: !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!!
Issue Found: One of the repair pieces got damaged when the rail was pulled to change the intake gasket. New repair part is on the way. In the mean time I’m going to the JY tomorrow to pull another fuel rail and a rear hatch. I will modify the other rail to eliminate the issue completely and have it on hand in case something fails again.
![]() 11/21/2018 at 07:32 |
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LS4
swap.
![]() 11/21/2018 at 07:37 |
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EV conversion
:P
![]() 11/21/2018 at 07:40 |
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yain’t gettin any help here, I see
![]() 11/21/2018 at 08:00 |
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Rplacing it with another old fuel rail might be a good fix, at least temporarily? Sounds easier than your other options, but idk about voyagers. If you could do it, it’s probably worth a shot?
![]() 11/21/2018 at 08:08 |
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![]() 11/21/2018 at 08:23 |
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Hellcat Voyager!
![]() 11/21/2018 at 08:29 |
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Damn, that’s frustrating.
Have you tried going directly to a dealership to see if you could locate the part? Do you have any type of part number for the part in general? Maybe if we put what exactly you’re looking for out there we might be able to help find it somewhere? I’m not saying you’re wrong about it not being available, but sometimes an extra set of eyes might work to look for the same thing.
In lieu of that, I say get another old fuel rail to install and then take the currently damaged one off and see if you can devise a more permanent solution and have it on the shelf as a just in case?
![]() 11/21/2018 at 08:41 |
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4. custom hard steel line with threaded end fittings, like something you would find on a diesel on the high pressure side of the fuel system.
I am not familiar with the system you have but it does seem to have enough material for a good tap and thread and janky sounds scary. My solution is to over
b
ui
ld it so no engineering and no worries are required.
![]() 11/21/2018 at 10:02 |
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That is pretty much how the “janky” repair is done. But using a braided steel line would make me feel better about it.
![]() 11/21/2018 at 10:05 |
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Issue I have with another used one is it’s likely it will have the same issue. The internal o-rings wear out from age, then begin leaking once you pull them off due to the way the rail has to twist to come out.
The part number for the rail is: 4554108 Everything I’ve found says discontinued. I was hoping to find an old stock one somewhere.
![]() 11/21/2018 at 10:06 |
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GoFundMe?
![]() 11/21/2018 at 10:06 |
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They actually made an EV version of these, but no, I like my engine noises too much to have an EV.
![]() 11/21/2018 at 10:07 |
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One thing after another.
![]() 11/21/2018 at 10:51 |
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So.. my knowledge on engine swaps is essentially limited to Forza where you click a button and “hey presto” your Fiesta ST somehow has a 5.0 in it.
But, I have always thought that if D100's slant 6 craps out, I’d slip a Pentastar in there. Is that feasible for you? You are a machinist so presumably fabricating mounts/other things isn’t too out of the question.
Lots of availability /parts. Seems like an OK engine . You could even buy new, lots of crates to choose from I think.
![]() 11/21/2018 at 11:35 |
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I assume something like
this
is what you tried to use to fix the fuel rail before?
I dunno if you found this
post
, but the user Aldergrove seems to have had one remade, maybe it’s possible you could do the same?
Edit: I realize the fix I quoted was for the 3.8 but maybe you could figure a way to take what he did and apply it to yours?
![]() 11/21/2018 at 12:06 |
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I assume something like this is what you tried to use to fix the fuel rail before?
Yes, t hat is the “fix” it has currently.
I dunno if you found this post , but the user Aldergrove seems to have had one remade, maybe it’s possible you could do the same?
That is the Janky repair I referred to.
Edit: I realize the fix I quoted was for the 3.8 but maybe you could figure a way to take what he did and apply it to yours?
I have the 3.8l, so it does apply ;)
![]() 11/21/2018 at 12:09 |
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It’s already got a motor/trans swap. ;) Was originally a 3.0/3-speed auto, I swapped it to a 3.8/4-speed a while back.
I’ve thought about the 4.0L V6/6-speed or Pentastar/6-speed, but they require completely rewiring everything from front to back to make them work. If I knew of a stand alone system for the trans I would do it, but no one makes a controller that works with these transmissions....
![]() 11/21/2018 at 12:17 |
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Very common issue with these fuel rails. There’s a stealth revision . N o official ‘kit’ but you need both fuel rails, all the O-rings, and the connection hardware including the O-rings. Also, replace the FPR, because these like to blow out rails when they fail. Fix it right once and never fix it again.
![]() 11/21/2018 at 12:20 |
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Any info on this?
![]() 11/21/2018 at 12:34 |
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No, it’s an absolute stealth revision. There’s no PN change, no TSB. The only change is the interface materials at the mating point mid-flight. Warranty policy was to do the fuel rail on failure always unless it was clearly O-ring or FPR.
There may be a TSB circa... eh, call it between ‘04 and ‘06 for the range relating to corrosion of the fuel rail clip itself. (Might be WAY off on year though, fair warning.) I think that was 3.3/3.8. Basically advised to replace the clip with the revised part which is slightly thicker.
![]() 11/29/2018 at 07:40 |
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I’m confused why option 1 is janky?
![]() 11/29/2018 at 10:13 |
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It’s the right way to fix it, it just looks janky no matter how well it’s done.
![]() 11/29/2018 at 10:48 |
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It doesn’t look janky to me in my mind. When you modify the JY one post it up here for us all to judge.
![]() 11/29/2018 at 12:00 |
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Will do for sure.
Using the repair kit for now, hopefully it’ll get me through winter without issue, then once it’s warmer I’ll set into modifying the JY one.